We talk a lot about dressmaking for women but of course it is not only ladies who appreciate the unrivalled pleasure of handmade clothing. Mens tailoring has dominated the fashion scene since the days of Louis XIV or Louis le Grand, as he was sometimes known. Determined for France to become the most influential country in the world, fashion was one of many weapons in Louis' armoury; the King of Fashion knew that image was of great importance. Today, more men than ever are coveting the classic English style of tailoring as key to projecting confidence and power in the workplace and all aspects of their daily lives.
[caption id="attachment_7119" align="alignleft" width="120"]
This jacket was the inspiration for the finished piece.[/caption]
Of course bespoke tailoring is a skilled trade and it takes a talented hand using a combination of techniques to achieve the most flattering, comfortable fit, but by using the highest quality fabrics and haberdashery it is possible for any skilled dressmaker or tailor to achieve the sharp lines and contemporary design of bespoke tailoring. In the world of modern fashion, bespoke tailoring is more in demand than ever with fashion conscious men hoping to emulate the designer style of icons such as David Beckham and David Gandy. When Calico Laine M.D. Mark Baker spotted a picture of a gorgeous melton jacket in a top fashion publication, he knew that with Fabrics from Calico Laine and the talents of our long time customers Queesra & King, that he could emulate the sought after style and straight away commissioned Christopher King to produce a custom made replica. After sharing a picture of the finished item on our Facebook page, we were inundated with queries so we invited Christopher and Queesra to Calico Laine HQ for a quick Q & A:
How did you become interested in sewing?
The two of us first became interested in sewing early on in life, my grandmother was a talented sewer and Queesra's mother was a dressmaker, so we both found ourselves sewing at an early age. I was particularly taken by the fact that if I could sew I didn't have to worry about buying clothes from a shop that didn't quite fit or weren't the right shape as I could make them myself.
Queesra on the other hand loves the design element of clothing and sewing allows for a greater understanding of how an item of clothing is put together, which is an essential part of understanding how to design clothing.
Please tell us a little bit about your company? How long have you been trading? What demographic of customer do you find you are attracting?
We started trading as Queesra&King in 2011 but only moved into the shop in Neston seven months ago. We find that we attract a wide variety of customers.
The alterations we provide tend to be a stepping-stone to our bespoke service, as people find that they prefer fitted clothing, and trust our service. We believe that when customers choose a made to measure garment rather than something off the rail it is because the service allows you more control and the end product looks great because it fits well.
We also have a lot of bridal customers, wanting all kinds of different things, one interesting project we've recently completed was five bridesmaid dresses, all different styles to suit the wearer, but all the same material. To finish off we cut all the hems to the same length so when they stood next to one another there was a straight line!
The ideology behind the company is based on control, handing it back to the customer allowing them to hand pick each and every detail.
What styles/trends do you think are popular at the moment?
At the moment Pastel colours are definitely in, light weight fabrics and garments with very little structure, so anything loose.
About the jacket:
How long is the creation process from start to finish?
Really it depends on how busy the shop is if it's quiet it could take two weeks including the measuring, designing, sewing and fitting, however when we’re busy a jacket would take a month.
[caption id="attachment_7121" align="aligncenter" width="300"]
Intricate stitching around the collar of the jacket.[/caption]
Did you use a pattern? If not, how did you go about creating each piece?
Yes I did use a pattern but one that I had created previously. These are the pattern blocks I used for the jacket; chest, waist, neck, shoulder, sleeve, armhole, front cross, back cross and length from neck to hip. My patterns are average sizes so for the Jacket it's based on a 40" chest, after measuring the client I adjust the pattern to the measurements, I use block paper but you can also use cardboard, for the patterns.
To make a jacket like this, how many fittings would you expect to be required?
Usually there would be two fittings.
Do you have a favourite part of the creative process? A least favourite part?
Yes, with this Jacket I really enjoyed getting on the sewing machine and putting the pieces together. Pockets are always a nightmare!
How easy was the fabric to work with?
The fabric was great; I added some interface and horsehair for the structure of the jacket, just to give it a bit more shape, which is what you would usually do for a jacket like this. Overall it was a great material to work with, the pieces stitched together really well.
What is your favourite fabric to work with overall?
Cashmere, it's soft and warm and has a really rich texture.
What other fabrics would you suggest if a customer did not want Melton fabric?
I'd say Cashmere for the reasons above it's a great material.
Do you have a favourite type of garment that you like to create?
I love making three-piece suits, the structure is very complex, it really puts your skills to the test. It's also a mixture of both machine and hand sewing, which is nice to swap between the two.
[caption id="attachment_7122" align="aligncenter" width="300"]
A Queesra & King original.[/caption]
Aside from items such as scissors, pins etc. what items would you consider to be absolutely essential to your work?
Obviously the first thing that comes to mind is a heavy-duty flat bed industrial sewing machine. Aside from that it would be a buttonhole machine, without that you can't make shirts, suits, jackets or trousers.
Do you have any tips for sewing beginners?
Patience and enjoyment are probably two of the most important things to remember, they're something my grandmother said to me. She also said that you should understand how to do what you're trying do. So it might take an extra ten or twenty minutes but if you don't know what to do properly, read up on it before you start or it'll probably take you longer, you might not enjoy it and it might not look so good.
[caption id="attachment_7123" align="aligncenter" width="217"]
Christopher and Queesra with the finished piece.[/caption]
This jacket was the inspiration for the finished piece.[/caption]
Of course bespoke tailoring is a skilled trade and it takes a talented hand using a combination of techniques to achieve the most flattering, comfortable fit, but by using the highest quality fabrics and haberdashery it is possible for any skilled dressmaker or tailor to achieve the sharp lines and contemporary design of bespoke tailoring. In the world of modern fashion, bespoke tailoring is more in demand than ever with fashion conscious men hoping to emulate the designer style of icons such as David Beckham and David Gandy. When Calico Laine M.D. Mark Baker spotted a picture of a gorgeous melton jacket in a top fashion publication, he knew that with Fabrics from Calico Laine and the talents of our long time customers Queesra & King, that he could emulate the sought after style and straight away commissioned Christopher King to produce a custom made replica. After sharing a picture of the finished item on our Facebook page, we were inundated with queries so we invited Christopher and Queesra to Calico Laine HQ for a quick Q & A:
How did you become interested in sewing?
The two of us first became interested in sewing early on in life, my grandmother was a talented sewer and Queesra's mother was a dressmaker, so we both found ourselves sewing at an early age. I was particularly taken by the fact that if I could sew I didn't have to worry about buying clothes from a shop that didn't quite fit or weren't the right shape as I could make them myself.
Queesra on the other hand loves the design element of clothing and sewing allows for a greater understanding of how an item of clothing is put together, which is an essential part of understanding how to design clothing.
Please tell us a little bit about your company? How long have you been trading? What demographic of customer do you find you are attracting?
We started trading as Queesra&King in 2011 but only moved into the shop in Neston seven months ago. We find that we attract a wide variety of customers.
The alterations we provide tend to be a stepping-stone to our bespoke service, as people find that they prefer fitted clothing, and trust our service. We believe that when customers choose a made to measure garment rather than something off the rail it is because the service allows you more control and the end product looks great because it fits well.
We also have a lot of bridal customers, wanting all kinds of different things, one interesting project we've recently completed was five bridesmaid dresses, all different styles to suit the wearer, but all the same material. To finish off we cut all the hems to the same length so when they stood next to one another there was a straight line!
The ideology behind the company is based on control, handing it back to the customer allowing them to hand pick each and every detail.
What styles/trends do you think are popular at the moment?
At the moment Pastel colours are definitely in, light weight fabrics and garments with very little structure, so anything loose.
About the jacket:
How long is the creation process from start to finish?
Really it depends on how busy the shop is if it's quiet it could take two weeks including the measuring, designing, sewing and fitting, however when we’re busy a jacket would take a month.
[caption id="attachment_7121" align="aligncenter" width="300"] Intricate stitching around the collar of the jacket.[/caption]
Did you use a pattern? If not, how did you go about creating each piece?
Yes I did use a pattern but one that I had created previously. These are the pattern blocks I used for the jacket; chest, waist, neck, shoulder, sleeve, armhole, front cross, back cross and length from neck to hip. My patterns are average sizes so for the Jacket it's based on a 40" chest, after measuring the client I adjust the pattern to the measurements, I use block paper but you can also use cardboard, for the patterns.
To make a jacket like this, how many fittings would you expect to be required?
Usually there would be two fittings.
Do you have a favourite part of the creative process? A least favourite part?
Yes, with this Jacket I really enjoyed getting on the sewing machine and putting the pieces together. Pockets are always a nightmare!
How easy was the fabric to work with?
The fabric was great; I added some interface and horsehair for the structure of the jacket, just to give it a bit more shape, which is what you would usually do for a jacket like this. Overall it was a great material to work with, the pieces stitched together really well.
What is your favourite fabric to work with overall?
Cashmere, it's soft and warm and has a really rich texture.
What other fabrics would you suggest if a customer did not want Melton fabric?
I'd say Cashmere for the reasons above it's a great material.
Do you have a favourite type of garment that you like to create?
I love making three-piece suits, the structure is very complex, it really puts your skills to the test. It's also a mixture of both machine and hand sewing, which is nice to swap between the two.
[caption id="attachment_7122" align="aligncenter" width="300"] A Queesra & King original.[/caption]
Aside from items such as scissors, pins etc. what items would you consider to be absolutely essential to your work?
Obviously the first thing that comes to mind is a heavy-duty flat bed industrial sewing machine. Aside from that it would be a buttonhole machine, without that you can't make shirts, suits, jackets or trousers.
Do you have any tips for sewing beginners?
Patience and enjoyment are probably two of the most important things to remember, they're something my grandmother said to me. She also said that you should understand how to do what you're trying do. So it might take an extra ten or twenty minutes but if you don't know what to do properly, read up on it before you start or it'll probably take you longer, you might not enjoy it and it might not look so good.
[caption id="attachment_7123" align="aligncenter" width="217"] Christopher and Queesra with the finished piece.[/caption]