In sewing, we take our inspiration from everything around us including the catwalk, film and TV and of course; the past. Never has vintage fashion been more popular than it is today and thanks to the likes of films such as Baz Luhrman's The Great Gatsby, The Roaring Twenties are back with a vengeance. Costume makers, dressmakers and theatre groups are embracing The Jazz Age with sewing projects influenced by the symmetry, geometric shapes and angular designs of Art Deco fashions. Influenced by Aztec motifs, the Art Deco Fashion of the 1920's was a period of great experimentation in fashions and sewing projects with dresses and hair becoming shorter than ever before.
[caption id="attachment_6393" align="alignright" width="158"] The Flapper Girl was the defining style of the Art Deco Era.[/caption]
Following the end of World War I there was an explosion of exuberance in fashion, the 1920's were a breath of fresh air following the war and before the dark days of The Great Depression. With the explosion of women's liberation and many young ladies entering the work place for the first time in what was a very prosperous economy, there was a sense of freedom and excitement among the younger generation which saw women distancing themselves from the prudish Victorian sewing fashions. Seamstresses were being tasked with sewing dresses in a more linear fashion in the hopes of achieving a more boyish figure as was the fashion of the day. In the spirit of The Roaring Twenties when morale was high and parties aplenty, the emphasis switched from restrictive form-shaping corsets to focus on clothing that women could dance and play sports in.
One of the most defining fashions of this time was of course The Flapper. Flapper Girls were renowned for their disdain for conventional fashions and behaviour and became famous for their distinctive design of dress. The Flapper Dress was characterised by its drop waist and was adorned with sequins and fringe, always accessorised with a headpiece and long cigarette holder. There is much discussion about how the girls came to be known as "Flappers" however, many people believe that the name was derived from the way their dresses would flap when they danced. The Flapper Girl fashion was unique and shocking for the time and represents a rebellion by young people against the strict expectations previously held for women in society. This was shown not only by the evolution of sewing and dressmaking fashions but also by hair and make up trends. The Art Deco era saw young girls moving away from the muted and natural make up trends of the past and embracing a more dramatic look including smokey eyes, cupids bow lips and even false lashes.
The Art Deco look is one that is still widely coveted for fancy dress parties however, with a few subtle adjustments it is possible to take inspiration from the 1920's and incorporate the era into your more modern sewing projects. It is possible to source genuine vintage items from charity shops and the internet however, for those who are keen on sewing and dressmaking, The Flapper Dress is a simple and fulfilling project to tackle by yourself. Though it may seem intimidating, the 1920's flapper style is a simple style to replicate due to its straight, un-contoured silhouette. Since this is a loose fitting style of garment, it does not require formal measurements and is a project which will take around one hour of sewing time.
[caption id="attachment_6392" align="alignleft" width="172"] Coco Chanel revolutionised women's fashion during the 1920's.[/caption]
If you do not have the confidence to go all out Flapper Girl but still wish to channel your inner Daisy Buchanan into your sewing projects you can still give a nod to the era by taking subtle inspiration from a few key elements of the fashions. In order to avoid looking like you are headed to a costume party try to avoid the fringed dress, feather boa and cigarette holder and instead opt for a simple chemise style dress modernised with up to date accessories and shoes. For a more practical way to incorporate this particular era into your sewing work, the 1920's style cocoon coat is practical and stylish and gives a subtle nod to the opulence of the time whilst still remaining stylish and modern. The androgynous style of dress that has been big over the last few years is a great way of channeling this era without submitting to beaded dresses and fascinators and is ultimately a much more wearable way to pay tribute to the Jazz Age. Coco Chanel was the first to popularise trousers for women and by the mid 1920's she had opened two boutiques, one in Paris and one in Biarritz which showcased her comfortable and practical designs. Take your sewing inspiration from Coco by including loose jersey fabrics and pearls in your projects for an authentic 1920's style.
How have you channeled The Jazz Era into your sewing projects? Keep your eye on the blog over the coming weeks for a simple Flapper Dress tutorial and more tips and inspiration from years gone by.
Until next time!
Calico Laine