When we think of shoulder pads we automatically think of Melanie Griffith in Working Girl, with shoulder pads almost up to her ears! Whilst shoulder pads are certainly a piece of haberdashery synonymous with the 1980's, according to many of the leading fashion publications they are back, albeit in a more subtle way than the over exaggerated power dressing trends of the eighties. During the eighties, shoulder pads were worn as big as possible and were paired with enormous hairstyles, a look which was designed to create an upside down triangle effect, resulting in the illusion of a tiny waist. Rather than the massive shoulder pad fashions of days gone by, today's shoulder pads are designed to point upwards to give the illusion of height. Whilst most of us still associate shoulder pads with the eighties, the truth is they are an item of haberdashery which has been in and out of fashion for quite some time.
First introduced by fashion designers, Marcel Rochas and Elsa Schiaparelli in 1931, the padded shoulder gained momentum during the thirties thanks to Hollywood starlets including Joan Crawford who showcased enormous shoulder ruffles for her role in the 1932 drama, Letty Lynton. Shoulder pads maintained much of their popularity throughout World War II with fashion conscious young women making the most of their fabric rations by pairing shorter skirts with structured shoulders and peplum waists. Following the end of the war and the lifting of restrictions on fabrics, shoulder pads began to wane in popularity. The angular silhouette favoured during the war years was making way for more floaty and feminine fashions with full collars and sleeves and a tight waistline. Over the next few decades sales of shoulder pads in haberdashery stores all over the world would continue to decline.
Then, in 1979 Margaret Thatcher strode onto the world stage when she became Britain's first ever female Prime Minister. Big shoulder pads were part of Margaret's fashion armoury and along with her backcombed hair and deepened voice, formed the steely image for which she became famous. As the eighties progressed, Margaret's bold sense of style ushered in the age of power dressing and the shoulder pad was about to become one of the most memorable fashion trends of all time. With women such as Bianca Jagger and Princess Diana showcasing the trend, shoulder pads were literally bigger than ever and it was not just women who were rocking a padded shoulder. New Romantics such as Adam Ant embraced the trend and inspired many other iconic fashion moments including Michael Jackson's epaulette shouldered jacket which was the inspiration for Balmain's Spring/Summer 09 collection. Up to the end of the decade women inspired by Melanie Griffith and Glenn Close, were smashing the glass ceiling with the aid of the structured, corporate style of fashion which had defined an era. With the dawn of the 1990's a more soft-edged, feminine style of dress arrived and many of us wondered whether shoulder pads would ever be gracing the shelves of our haberdashery stores again.
[caption id="attachment_6206" align="alignleft" width="183"] Julianne Hough brings the shoulder pad bang up to date at the premiere of Paradise in Los Angeles.[/caption]
With pop stars such as Lady Gaga, whose take on fashion is largely inspired by the club scene of the eighties, shoulder pads have begun to experience resurgence. With modern designers such as Victoria Beckham incorporating fierce structuring into their designs, shoulder pads are beginning to pick up pace again in the world of modern fashion. Shoulder pads have slowly begun to creep onto the red carpet and into the wardrobes of many Hollywood starlets including Julianne Hough who attended the premiere of her film, Paradise in a stunning Moschino dress with structured shoulders, a double-breast and two-tone lapels, and Halle Berry who rocked a custom made Versace Dynasty inspired dress with shoulder pads at the 2013 Academy Awards. Shoulder pads are an item of haberdashery which can be incorporated into many designs and when worn correctly can inject a touch of dramatic glamour into many of your outfits. To achieve a modern look, avoid going overboard by keeping your shoulder pads subtle and the rest of your look sleek, no big hair or oversized earrings! Let the structure do the talking by making your shoulders the focal point of your outfit, and be careful not to pair the structured shoulder design with too many other fashions.
Our haberdashery department carry a range of shoulder pads in varying sizes all of which are ideal for use within many of your designs to add comfort and structure. Love them or hate them, shoulder pads are back and right on-trend.
Until next time
Calico Laine.