This month, one of the most successful motion pictures of all time is back in movie theatres. As Gone With The Wind prepares to celebrate its 75th Anniversary, cinemas around the world will once again welcome fans of this timeless classic set during The American Civil War. Based on the 1936 novel by Margaret Mitchell the epic tale follows the struggle of the indomitable heroine Scarlett O'Hara as she finds herself in extreme poverty following Sherman's March in the winter of 1864; which sees her home state of Atlanta destroyed. Since it's first release in 1939, movie fans have been enthralled by the sweeping epic and in particular the sensational costumes and Dress Fabrics which depict Scarlett's journey from the flighty daughter of a wealthy plantation owner to a struggling widow foraging for food and money to provide for the family who are relying on her to pull them through the hardship of war. The best selling novel became an instant classic when it was published in 1936 with over 30 million copies sold; in fact this novel is so popular that it was recently voted America's second favourite book behind The Bible. Director David O. Selznick secured the movie rights for a record breaking $50,000 and what followed was to become one of greatest and most revered creations in Hollywood history.
One of the most captivating aspects of the film was the exquisite period costume. Designed by Walter Plunkett, the more than 5,000 wardrobe items have become almost as iconic as the movie itself. When he was chosen to design the wardrobe of Vivien Leigh and the cast, Walter Plunkett had long been recognised as one of Hollywood's greatest costume designers and specialised specifically in period costume. During one of the first scenes in the film we see Scarlett considering which of her gowns would be best to wear to her neighbours barbecue to set off her charms and make her irresistible to her love interest, Ashley Wilkes. From that moment to the closing credits, costume and Dress Fabric is one of the most important aspects of the entire production as we see Miss Scarlett go from riches to rags and back again. Gone With The Wind was one of the first movies to tell its story through costume as much as it did action and dialogue; from the corseted dresses and lace petticoats to what the character describes as the "hideous black dresses" Scarlett was forced to wear as a reluctant widow in mourning.
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Scarlett's BBQ dress featuring a sash in her signature green.[/caption]
The character of Scarlett displays two signature colours throughout the production, red and green. Of course, red is the obvious choice for a character named Scarlett but this deliberate choice of hue reflects not only the name and personality of the main character but also the landscape of the family's Georgia plantation; "the red earth of Tara" is a theme referred to repeatedly throughout the film. For Scarlett, a character of Irish heritage, emerald green is another favourite colour and it is in this shade that two of her most iconic costumes are created. The dress that Scarlett wears to the Wilkes' barbecue at the neighbouring Twelve Oaks plantation is a pretty, flirtatious gown which was chosen by the character to be deliberately risqué for the occasion as she was hoping to catch the eye of her beloved Ashley. This is probably the first time that we see the characters rebellious side and the first flare of her "irish temper". The suggestive gown is in direct contrast to that of Ashley's betrothed Melanie who is seen wearing an almost matronly outfit made from a Dress Fabric in the same grey as the Confederate Army uniform, an outfit much more fitting for a southern lady of her standing. Melanie is a loyal Confederate, Scarlett is a rebel and throughout the remainder of the film we see the two women's characters contrast and clash in the same way as their costume design during this early scene.
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The iconic 'curtain dress' made from a green velvet Dress Fabric.[/caption]
It has been said that no movie costume has ever captured the imagination of the viewing public in the same way as Scarlett's green "curtain dress" and it is most certainly among one of the most famous outfits in Hollywood history. The elaborate creation was designed from a velvet Dress Fabric and was designed to look as though it had been crafted by the character's own hand. In one of the most famous scenes of the film, Scarlett is seen ripping down her drawing room draperies and fashioning them into an extravagant gown which she wears to pay a visit to notorious blockade runner Rhett Butler in the hopes of securing his financial assistance to clear the $300 tax on Tara. The Dress Fabric was selected by Walter Plunkett and his team in a striking shade of emerald green specifically to complement Vivien's beautiful raven hair and piercing eyes.
In 2010, generous donors from around the world donated over $30,000 for restoration work to begin on some of the most iconic of Scarlett's costumes. After many decades in storage the Dress Fabrics had begun to degrade and show signs of serious damage. Most film costumes are not built to last longer than the time it takes to shoot a scene, Dress Fabrics are heavy and the construction complicated but from autumn of 2010 to spring of 2012, a team of dedicated artists carried out detailed conservation work on the green curtain dress and burgundy ball gown, worn by Vivien Leigh during Ashley Wilkes birthday scene, which took over 180 hours to complete. Eventually, the garments were stabilised enough that they could withstand travel and were sent to The Victoria and Albert Museum in London for the exhibition Hollywood Costume where they were displayed until January of 2013. Later, they were sent on to The Ransom Centre in Texas which is where they remain to this day.
Scarlett's BBQ dress featuring a sash in her signature green.[/caption]
The character of Scarlett displays two signature colours throughout the production, red and green. Of course, red is the obvious choice for a character named Scarlett but this deliberate choice of hue reflects not only the name and personality of the main character but also the landscape of the family's Georgia plantation; "the red earth of Tara" is a theme referred to repeatedly throughout the film. For Scarlett, a character of Irish heritage, emerald green is another favourite colour and it is in this shade that two of her most iconic costumes are created. The dress that Scarlett wears to the Wilkes' barbecue at the neighbouring Twelve Oaks plantation is a pretty, flirtatious gown which was chosen by the character to be deliberately risqué for the occasion as she was hoping to catch the eye of her beloved Ashley. This is probably the first time that we see the characters rebellious side and the first flare of her "irish temper". The suggestive gown is in direct contrast to that of Ashley's betrothed Melanie who is seen wearing an almost matronly outfit made from a Dress Fabric in the same grey as the Confederate Army uniform, an outfit much more fitting for a southern lady of her standing. Melanie is a loyal Confederate, Scarlett is a rebel and throughout the remainder of the film we see the two women's characters contrast and clash in the same way as their costume design during this early scene.
[caption id="attachment_7945" align="alignright" width="198"] The iconic 'curtain dress' made from a green velvet Dress Fabric.[/caption]
It has been said that no movie costume has ever captured the imagination of the viewing public in the same way as Scarlett's green "curtain dress" and it is most certainly among one of the most famous outfits in Hollywood history. The elaborate creation was designed from a velvet Dress Fabric and was designed to look as though it had been crafted by the character's own hand. In one of the most famous scenes of the film, Scarlett is seen ripping down her drawing room draperies and fashioning them into an extravagant gown which she wears to pay a visit to notorious blockade runner Rhett Butler in the hopes of securing his financial assistance to clear the $300 tax on Tara. The Dress Fabric was selected by Walter Plunkett and his team in a striking shade of emerald green specifically to complement Vivien's beautiful raven hair and piercing eyes.
In 2010, generous donors from around the world donated over $30,000 for restoration work to begin on some of the most iconic of Scarlett's costumes. After many decades in storage the Dress Fabrics had begun to degrade and show signs of serious damage. Most film costumes are not built to last longer than the time it takes to shoot a scene, Dress Fabrics are heavy and the construction complicated but from autumn of 2010 to spring of 2012, a team of dedicated artists carried out detailed conservation work on the green curtain dress and burgundy ball gown, worn by Vivien Leigh during Ashley Wilkes birthday scene, which took over 180 hours to complete. Eventually, the garments were stabilised enough that they could withstand travel and were sent to The Victoria and Albert Museum in London for the exhibition Hollywood Costume where they were displayed until January of 2013. Later, they were sent on to The Ransom Centre in Texas which is where they remain to this day.